Wednesday 19 March 2014

36 Hours in Hyderabad, India

Kuni Takahashi for The New York Times

The Taramati Baradari, a pavilion said to have been built for a king’s courtesan. More Photos »

By SHIVANI VORA

SITUATED in the southern state of Andhra Pradesh, Hyderabad is a juxtaposition of old and new unlike any other city in India. While Microsoft, Google and other technology giants have offices in the glass and steel structures in the district known as Cyberabad, the history of this more than 400-year-old city is just as alluring as destinations like Jaipur and Agra, with sites like the 13th-century Golconda Fort, once home to the famous Kohinoor diamond, and the iconic Charminar monument in Hyderabad’s teeming Old City. In the past, Hyderabad was often overlooked as a tourism destination. But in recent years, sleek hotels, restaurants and night spots that cater to the 20- and 30-somethings working in the information technology industry have been attracting jet-setters from around the world who come to discover the past and experience the rapidly evolving present.

The tombs of Mah Laqa Bai, a highly regarded Urdu poet from the 18th century. More Photos »

Friday 5:30 p.m.

1. SUNSET OVER THE CITY

Skip the standard guidebook suggestion of catching the Sound and Light Show at Golconda Fort, and head to the Taramati Baradari (Gandipet Road, Ibrahimbagh), the beautiful pavilion not far from the fort that was supposedly built for the favorite mistress of one of the 17th-century Golconda kings. Legend has it that her singing reached the king as he sat on his throne at the fort less than two miles away. Stand in one

of the archways, and watch the sun set over the fort and on the 16th- and 17th-century tombs of the kings.

8 p.m.

2. A TASTE OF ANDHRA

Andhra food has a reputation as the spiciest in India so get ready to face the heat at Southern Spice (Road No. 3, Banjara Hills; 91-40-2335-3802; prices from 150 to 300 rupees, or $2.85 to $5.75 at 52 rupees to the dollar), a perpetually packed casual spot that’s a local standby. The South Indian thali served in a round steel plate is the most popular order, with more than a half-dozen small dishes that might include fried cabbage with peanuts and coconut, rasam (a lentil soup with tamarind), curried eggplant and mounds of rice. Round out your meal with fiery sides like chepala pulusu, a kind of fish stew in tamarind sauce (290 rupees) and gongura mutton (295 rupees), mutton cooked with sorrel leaves.

Saturday

8 a.m.

3. FAITH AND POETRY

Most visitors don’t make it out of the city to Moula-Ali, an area a few miles north that is named after Hazrat Ali, who is believed to be the son-in-law of the Prophet Muhammad. A shrine atop a hill pays homage to him on the spot where he was believed to have left the mark of his palm. The 20-minute climb is well worth the views of the city. On your way back into town, stop at the tombs of Mah Laqa Bai, a highly regarded Urdu poet and a famous courtesan from the 18th century. The tomb and the gardens around it have been recently restored with financing from the U.S. Ambassadors Fund for Cultural Preservation.

11 a.m.

4. PEARL SHOPPING

Hyderabad processes many of the world’s pearls, which means the selection is extensive and the buying more wallet friendly than other places. Though there is no shortage of pearl vendors, Mangatrai Pearls and Jewelry (5-9-46, Basheer Bagh, End of the Flyover; 91-40-2323-3305, mangatraipearls.com) has an established reputation for its high-quality pearls. Park yourself on a stool, sip coffee or tea prepared in the back room, and let one of the salespeople present you with necklaces, earrings, pendants, bracelets and hairpieces (prices range from 250 to 2.5 million rupees).

Noon

5. HIGH-TECH WORLD

Take a drive through Cyberabad with its towering buildings and paved streets and end up at InOrbit Mall (APIIC Software Layout, Cyberabad; inorbit.in). Megamalls aren’t a novel concept in India, but this 800,000-square-foot behemoth with a mix of Indian and Western retailers is one of the largest in the country and is worth strolling through to get a sense of the shopping culture that’s driven by the younger generation and their generous incomes.

1 p.m.

6. TWIST ON SOUTH INDIAN

End your trip in new Hyderabad with lunch at the Indian Art Café (F- 29, first Floor, Inorbit Mall; 91-40-4011-7445; indianartcafe.in), which, as the name hints, is decorated with modern Indian art and sculpture. The menu is a riff on classic South Indian cuisine like a pizza dosa (thin rice crepe) made with Cheddar cheese and served with ginger relish and a peanut dip (145 rupees).

2 p.m.

7. OLD CITY

Surrounding the four minarets of the 16th-century Charminar monument, one of South India’s most recognizable landmarks, is the 400-year-old Old City. You’ll find centuries-old buildings, an overwhelming amount of street noise and huge crowds, including burqa-clad women and men in kurtas. Hundreds of vendors hawk sequined turbans (from 200 rupees) and tunics for men (800 to 5,000 rupees) and scarves and clothing for women (100 to 10,000 rupees). The Laad Bazaar is filled with shops like Irfan Bangles (20-4-1205 Laad Bazaar; 91-40-6535-7411), which sell sparkly bangles (30 to 600 rupees), a Hyderabadi trademark.

3:30 p.m.

8. THE ROYAL LIFE

After shopping, walk over to the Chowmahalla Palace (Khilwat, 20-4-236; 91-40-2452-2032; chowmahalla.com; 150 rupees entrance fee for international visitors, plus 50 rupees for carrying a still camera), more than 200 years old, where the Nizam rulers — specifically the Asaf Jahi dynasty — held court. The structure, which is modeled after the Shah’s palace in Tehran, offers a glimpse into the luxurious lifestyle of these Muslim rulers, with such sights as a 1912 restored Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost, elephant howdahs and 19 grand Belgian glass chandeliers.

5 p.m.

9. ENGLISH RITUAL

Continue your journey into old Hyderabad with a trip to the Jade Room in Taj Falaknuma Palace (Engine Bowli, Falaknuma; 91-40-6629-8585; tajhotels.com; 1,500 rupees a person), a former Nizam palace turned luxury hotel that has hosted dignitaries and royalty like King George and Queen Mary. Today, the opulent space, with hand-painted ceilings and chandeliers, serves a decadent afternoon tea that includes salmon sandwiches, lamb samosas and masala scones. It can easily double as an early dinner. On your way out, take in the views of the city from the hotel grounds and listen to the sounds of the sarangi (stringed instrument) player sitting in a passageway.

9 p.m.

10. NIGHT SCENE

Get a taste of the night life that’s become increasingly popular among Hyderabadis by heading to the hip Park Hotel (22 Rajbhavan Road; 91-40-2345-6789; theparkhotels.com/hyderabad/hyderabad.html), which reigns when it comes to after-hours spots. Start by picking from nearly 20 kinds of Scotch at Sicca (450 to 4,000 rupees), a bar that’s reminiscent of an old-fashioned gentleman’s club. Then make your way over to either of two nightclubs for some dancing: Carbon has a more retro feel, while the newer Kismet attracts the city’s glitterati; a glass tunnel leads to the 10,000-square-foot space with its gold and black color scheme and sparkling lights. The soundtrack is Bollywood, house, trance and Western pop. Besides the main dance floor, the club has several side lounges for quieter conversation.

Sunday

10 a.m.

11. ANTIQUES HUNT

Hyderabad doesn’t come to life until midday, and few visitors make it to the weekly antiques market along Pathergatti Road in the Charminar area to experience its morning energy. You’ll find several dozen vendors selling wares like 200-year-old wine bottles, antique cameras, coins and hurricane lamps. Pick up a trinket or two to take home, and don’t forget that bargaining is a prerequisite to buying (most items fall in the range of 100 to 5,000 rupees).

Noon

12. BIRYANI TIME

Haggling builds an appetite, and sampling Hyderabadi biryani — a mix of rice, spices, meat, egg or vegetables — will seal your visit with delicious memories. The city is overrun with biryani spots, but the no-frills restaurant Hotel Shadab (21 High Court Road; 91-40-2456-5949) surpasses the competition. (Lunch is around 250 rupees.)

IF YOU GO

The Park Hyderabad (22 Rajbhavan Road; 91-40-2345-6789; theparkhotels.com) is part of the Indian chain of upscale boutique-style properties. This 270-room spot overlooking Hussain Sagar Lake has four lounges and suites created by prominent fashion designers like Tarun Tahiliani and Manish Arora. Rates from 4,960 rupees ($95).

You can live like a king at Taj Falaknuma Palace (Engine Bowli, Falaknuma; 91-40-6629-8585; tajhotels.com), a former Nizam palace that has been transformed into a 60-room luxury property following a 10-year restoration. The hotel is perched above the city and has 32 acres of immaculate gardens. Prices from 20,500 rupees.

A guide and car and driver is recommended for seeing the city. Detours India (detoursindia.com) is a local company that offers private tours starting around 6,500 rupees.

36 Hours in the T.O.

36 Hours in Toronto

J. Adam Huggins for The New York Times

Clockwise from top left, Aunties and Uncles, Poetry Jazz Café, Royal Ontario Museum, near Kensington Market, Ursa and Dakota Tavern.

THERE’S something happening in Toronto. While so many cities lament the global economic crisis and the dulling effects of globalization, boutiques and restaurants seem to open every week in Toronto, and immigrant neighborhoods still feel linguistically, gastronomically, gloriously, distinct. The cultural diversity and urbanity seem limitless. But it’s hardly an urban jungle. Toronto is filled with lush, insistent greenery and an abundance of parks. It’s hard to imagine a better city to explore in summer.

Friday

4 p.m.

1. TO MARKET, TO MARKET

Toronto is full of food havens, but the market everyone talks about is Kensington, actually a series of cool coffeehouses, organic fruit stands and bars on the edge of Chinatown, a bustling sea of shops filled with Mandarin and Cantonese speakers. Start there, and make your way to the market. Check out the books and high-end kitchen paraphernalia at Good Egg (267 Augusta Avenue; 416-593-4663; goodegg.ca), then try a vegan muffin at Urban Herbivore (64 Oxford Street; 416-927-1231; fressenrestaurant.com; 2.44 Canadian dollars, about the same in United States currency), or a coffee at the Sublime Cafe (219 Augusta Avenue; 416-732-0431; thesublimecafe.com), which doubles as a vintage soul record shop. From there, wander into Bellevue Park. At the edge is the gorgeous Byzantine Revival Kiever Synagogue (25 Bellevue Avenue; 416-593-9702; kievershul.com), built in 1927 by Ukrainian Jews, evidence that the area was once a center for Jewish immigrants.

7 p.m.

2. APERITIF

Quench your thirst with an Augusta Ale (5.50 dollars) at Thirsty & Miserable (197 Baldwin Street; 647-607-0134,), which opened in February on the site of a former punk bar. It still feels pretty punk, with red walls and punk-hero photos on the walls. Or have a Duggans No. 9 pale ale (6.75 dollars) around the corner at Embassy Bar (223 Augusta Avenue; 416-591-1132), where the atmosphere is low-key and the red vinyl booths are filled with those who love the random D.J.-spun auditory mix, from the Cure to old ’60s to reggae.

8:30 p.m.

3. NOURISH

Queen Street West has recently witnessed an explosion of restaurants, all serving excellent food and all trending toward a rustic-hipster design, with filament lights and hardwood floors. The most avant-garde is the modern Canadian locavore cuisine at Ursa (924 Queen Street West; 416-536-8963; ursa-restaurant.com). The dining room — dark stained wood and sexy intimacy — serves dishes like exotic mushrooms with a sherry broth (13 dollars) and whey-brined Niagara pork loin with kale, lentils and sunchoke purée (24 dollars); tofu is made on site. One partner at Ursa comes from popular Terroni (720 Queen Street West, 416-504-1992; terroni.com), known for thin-crust whole-wheat pizzas and homemade raviolis; the black-stained back deck is filled with model types.

11:30 p.m.

4. BOUNCE AND DRINK

Toronto’s indie music scene thrives after 11 p.m. At Poetry Jazz Café (244 Augusta Avenue; 416-599-5299; poetryjazzcafe.com), the draws are a secluded back patio, live jazz bands and D.J.’s. At the Dakota Tavern, a subterranean honky-tonk haven (249 Ossington Avenue; 416-850-4579; thedakotatavern.com), you can hear everything from country to new folk (cover is usually between 5 and 10 dollars).

Saturday

10 a.m.

5. EYE OPENERS

Brunch is an urban sport in Toronto, and it can be impossible to find a seat. Try the Beaver (1192 Queen Street West; 416-537-2768; beavertoronto.ca), if only for the French 75 cocktails (cucumber, lemon, gin and prosecco, 6.75 dollars), the Bloody Caesar (like a bloody mary, but with clam juice) and the mustachioed waiter out of “Portlandia.” Or make the trip up to College Street for the grilled Canadian Cheddar cheese challah sandwich with a fried egg and homemade ketchup at the garage-sale chic Aunties and Uncles (74 Lippincott Street; 416-324-1375; auntiesanduncles.ca, breakfast for two comes to about 25 dollars).

Noon

6. INSIDE AND OUT

While the Royal Ontario Museum, with its sharp-angled Daniel Libeskind addition, is a crowd pleaser, the Art Gallery of Ontario (317 Dundas Street West; 416-979-6648; ago.net; 25 dollars) truly impresses, with a shell designed by the Toronto-born Frank Gehry. This summer, a blockbuster Picasso exhibition features treasures from the Musée National Picasso in Paris. Leave time to have a coffee in the atrium at the end of the exhibition; the light, and the light wood, can’t fail to uplift.

2 p.m.

7. GREEN BREAK

The lush Trinity Bellwoods Park, between Queen Street West and Dundas Street West, is filled with well-dressed residents, dogs, children and yoga practitioners. Take a breather here, then walk over a block to the exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Canadian Art (952 Queen Street West; 416-395-0067; mocca.ca), a huge warehouse-style gallery space excellent for large-form photography.

3 p.m.

8. SHOP FOR IT

Ossington Street and its environs offer amazing trawling. I Miss You (63 Ossington Avenue; 416-916-7021) has 1980s Chanel gowns (tags on!) for 800 dollars, Peggy Olson-esque late-1950s smart-silk dresses (85 dollars), bags of all shapes and prices, and more. Penny Arcade Vintage (1177 Dundas Street West; 647-346-1386; pennyarcadevintage.com) mines both old and new, like fab undergarments and ’50s-style swimwear by the local designer Minnow (140 dollars). More local design is found at nearby Parkdale’s shops. Made You Look (1273 Queen Street West; 416-516-9595; madeyoulook.ca) offers a range of Canadian-designed jewelry.

The Future Of Frances Watson (1390 Queen Street West; 416-531-8892; thefutureoffranceswatson.blogspot.com) peddles vintage-inspired strapless one-piece bathers by Insight (160 dollars) and raw, high-waisted Japanese denim from 130 dollars.

6 p.m.
9. BELLE BREWS

Head back to Ossington to the four-month-old Bellwoods Brewery (124 Ossington Avenue; 416-535-4586; bellwoodsbrewery.com). The former garage has been whitewashed and fitted with hardwood accents, including the long bar, rough-hewn tables and a small mezzanine. With only 40 indoor seats, it’s intimate, despite very high ceilings (the beer is brewed on site). Try the Farmhouse Saison (7.50 dollars) and plates of the addictive pickled vegetables: rhubarb, carrot, sprouts (5 dollars).

9 p.m.

10. EAT FRESH

Tom Thai practiced fusion at several Toronto mainstays before opening his own shop. The tiny dining room at Foxley Bistro (207 Ossington Avenue; 416-534-8520) produces some of the best fusion cuisine in the city, at pleasing prices. Try the series of wildly different ceviches meant for sharing — sea bream with yuzu and shizo (15 dollars), wild Arctic char with apples and ginger (15 dollars) — and the fragrant oven-steamed sea bass with Asian greens and white truffle oil (22 dollars).

11:30 p.m.

11. SIP AND SAVOR

Little Portugal’s main drag, Dundas Street West, remains Portuguese by day. The pharmacist speaks in her native tongue; the old women might be in Porto. By evening the district is filled with tipplers from all over the city. To the west of Ossington Avenue are Communist’s Daughter and the Red Light, coolio dives. But the year-old Cocktail Bar (923 Dundas Street West; 416-792-7511; theblackhoof.com), slightly to the east, is for grown-ups, with its dreamily lighted interior, tin ceiling, subway-tiled walls and bold cocktail list (try the summery Lavender Hound, with lavender-infused gin, lemon and grapefruit juice, 9 dollars). The owner is Jen Agg, the 36-year-old owner of Black Hoof, a celebration-of-meat restaurant and the month-old, seafood-focused Hoof Raw Bar, both conveniently across the street.

Sunday

10 a.m.

12. WAKE UP

A coffee and a homemade berry scone are the smart choices at Ella’s Uncle (916 Dundas Street West, 416-703-8881, ellasuncle.com), a tiny Little Portugal spot with superb espressos. Or try to wait it out for a space at the reclaimed-wood tables at The County General (936 Queen Street West, 416-531-4477, thecountygeneral.ca) for a messy-delicious croque monsieur (15 dollars).

Noon

13. WALK IT OFF

From the Beaches in the east to High Park in the west, your outdoor options are plentiful. But this morning, do as the locals do: take a boat to the outlying islands. From the Ferry (9 Queen Quay West; 416-397-2628; toronto.ca/parks/island; departures every 30 minutes, from 8 a.m. to 11:45 p.m.; 7 dollars) take in the Toronto skyline. On the beach, you can rent bikes or play volleyball, if you’re not simply idling.

IF YOU GO

The 12-room Hotel Ocho (195 Spadina Avenue; 416-593-0885; hotelocho.com; from 171 dollars), a former textile factory dating from 1902 in the heart of Chinatown, was built with the local cutting-edge design team Design38. The downstairs bar, lounge, restaurant and coffee shop draws locals.

The 37-room Gladstone Hotel (1214 Queen Street West; 416-531-4635; gladstonehotel.com, from 165 dollars) is as much art destination as sleeping quarters: the first two floors are filled with exhibitions, and each room was designed by an artist. The Sunday bluegrass brunch is packed with children.

To Rome with Love !

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/03/23/travel/in-rome-an-enclave-of-cool.html?ref=travel

In Rome, an Enclave of Cool

By SHEILA MARIKARMARCH 19, 2014

Diners at Primo al Pigneto.Credit Gianni Cipriano for The New York Times

A Culinary Pilgrimage to Punjab

By SHIVANI VORAMARCH 18, 2014

Cooking at Surjit Food Plaza in Amritsar, India.Credit Kuni Takahashi for The New York Times

Within five minutes of ordering three deluxe thalis at the large and bustling Bharawan da Dhaba in Amritsar, India, a waiter brought us round steel trays filled with our $3 lunch. There were a half-dozen bowls on each, which included spicy chickpeas with a hint of pomegranate powder, the black lentils known as daal and the Punjabi comfort food equivalents of macaroni and cheese — the creamy mustard greens called sarso ka saag and kadhi, a yellow chickpea flour and yogurt curry swimming with fried onion fritters. Lachedar parantha, whole wheat butter-layered bread, fresh from the tandoor clay oven, was our accompaniment.

These were the same dishes that Bharawan, a casual restaurant known as a dhaba, first served when it opened in 1912 as a covered tent restaurant, and they are what keep the crowds coming back more than a hundred years later.

Amritsar in the state of Punjab in northern India is a city for pilgrimages: There are those who come to visit the Golden Temple, the Sikh house of worship built in the 16th century, and then there are the presumably less pious who make the trip for the dhabas — divey looking joints famous for quick, inexpensive and remarkably tasty Punjabi cuisine.

Daal makhani at Kesar da Dhaba.Credit Kuni Takahashi for The New York Times

On our mid-December visit, my mother-in-law, Bharati, my sister, Aditi, and I came to pay homage to the latter, and over the course of three days, ate our way through the most notable ones in town.

Many dhabas originated along the highways in Punjab in the mid-20th century to serve hungry truck drivers and eventually started opening in cities throughout the area. The ones in Amritsar, however, were always deemed to be far superior to the rest. As a Punjabi growing up in New Delhi, I heard constant stories from my family over the hearty and often heart-clogging meals characteristic of our sect about the dhaba feasts to be had in Amritsar, and I recently decided to take a trip to taste the supposedly supreme versions of the dishes that are an integral part of my roots.

Although each dhaba has its own specialties, there are similarities: Most of them have been around for a half-century or more and are family-run — actually, make that male-run, often with two or three generations of fathers and sons working together. And they have cultish followings because the dishes are authentic, not inventive, using so much ghee (clarified butter) that even the most traditional French cook would blush.

My primary concern about my ambitious tour was whether my stomach would hold up given the American standards of hygiene I have become accustomed to, having lived in the United States for more than 25 years. But Rashmi Uday Singh, the Mumbai-based food writer who is a judge on the Indian series “The Foodie Show” and who filmed an episode about Amritsar dhabas, eased my fears. “The thing about dhabas is that they usually have no fridges and buy only enough ingredients every morning that they will use in a day so everything is very fresh,” she said.

Pooris at Kundan.Credit Kuni Takahashi for The New York Times

It was nostalgia that led me to our first stop: the nearly half-century old Kundan for its legendary chole poori breakfast. Located near the railway station, the small and square strictly vegetarian spot had plastic chairs and tables and dim lighting, but we weren’t there for the ambience. This morning meal of round, deep-fried puffy bread with spicy chickpeas was a beloved weekend tradition at my grandmother’s New Delhi house when I was a child.

A cook standing outside over a large black vat of bubbling oil flattened the dough for our pooris and fried them to a golden finish. Our stainless steel tray held four of them, a generous bowl of chickpeas, another one of cooling yogurt and a side of spicy mango pickle. Our intention was to try just a bit to save room for the abundance of eating ahead, but a few bites of the crispy and chewy bread cradling the tangy and spicy chickpeas wasn’t enough to get our fill. Before long, nearly everything on our 40 rupee platters (less than a $1) rested in our happy stomachs.

With the craving for one classic meal satisfied, it was time to try the most popular Punjabi dish of daal makhani. Apart from chicken tikka masala, these spicy black lentils might be the item most associated with Indian food and a top order for both Indians and non-Indians around the world when they are dining at Indian restaurants.

For this, we headed to Kesar da Dhaba, which we reached by walking through a series of narrow streets in the city center where rickshaws and bicycles were the only vehicles around.

A dish covered with silver leaf at Kesar da Dhaba.Credit Kuni Takahashi for The New York Times

When we arrived, we found the owner, Ajay Kumar, 49, chopping cauliflower in the front open kitchen. Behind him were more than a dozen men furiously mincing large bunches of vegetables and cilantro in preparation for the day.

Mr. Kumar’s great-grandfather, Lala Kesar Mul, started Kesar, also a vegetarian restaurant, in 1916. Back then, daal makhani was the prized dish, and nearly a hundred years later, it’s still the reason more than 700 people come here daily.

“We go through 220 pounds of daal a day, and it’s sold out by the evening,” Mr. Kumar said.

Making a batch in the massive steel caldron is a nine-hour endeavor that begins at 4 a.m., when one of Mr. Kumar’s cooks washes and boils lentils until they are soft. Adding salt and red chile powder is next, and a mixture that includes onion, ghee, turmeric and the pungent sweet spice asafetida goes in just before serving. The word makhani means “with butter” in Hindi, and the hot and thick brown daal isn’t complete until it’s scooped into shallow steel bowls and topped with at least a half-stick that gradually melts in and makes for the creamiest rendition we had ever tasted.

By the evening, my sister and I were hankering for a meat fix (my mother-in-law is a vegetarian), which we wisely decided to fulfill with the goat leg curry — a dish we both tried for the first time — at the 50-year-old Pal. The five green tables with cracks running through them and rickety benches in a small room made for a suspect setting, but as we took in the aroma of the curry simmering in a round cast-iron pot in the tiny open kitchen, we forgot about our surroundings.

Jasbir Singh, 40, who runs Pal with his father, Jashpal, says there is a secret to the curry’s deep flavor: roasting and grinding the spices such as garam masala, cumin, coriander and red pepper daily. The chewy and rich goat legs in the soupy gravy beg for naan to scoop it up, but instead of the standard plain variety, Mr. Singh, who does all the cooking at Pal himself, presented us with a version filled with minced mutton. “We are not a place for those who don’t eat meat,” he said.

Because most dhabas are vegetarian, Pal stands out, but rarer still are the ones that sell fish. Fried catfish that is well known in India by different names, including singara, was a household staple for us in Delhi so I was happy to find that it’s the star at two of the most respected dhabas in town, which happen to have a connection. The story began with Makhan Fish & Chicken Corner, which two brothers, Sucha and Sarder Surjit Singh, opened as a stand near the railway station with their father almost 50 years ago. At the time, fish was unheard-of in Amritsar, but they sold fried singara fillets crusted in chickpea flour, caraway seeds and red chile powder.

The brothers eventually split, and Sucha kept the Makhan name and opened a two-story dhaba that his son Harjit, 29, now runs and where the original recipe is the reason to dine. The first floor is a place for men to bring in alcohol to enjoy with their heaping platters while families and women with children are relegated to the second floor, an alcohol-free zone. His cousin Amarjit Singh, 33, oversees Surjit Food Plaza, which, with its glass tables, clean white walls and wooden chairs was the most upscale of the dhabas that we visited. Although the same crisp fish is on the menu, Amarjit Singh has distinguished himself with new inventions like the incredibly tender spinach-coated fish kebabs baked in the tandoor, located in the outdoor kitchen in the narrow alley behind the restaurant. There’s also his homemade paneer, an Indian cheese, which my mother-in-law declared was the softest she had ever tried — even softer than hers.

Part of the charm of dhabas is that they function much as they did when they first opened, although they can be savvy about modern marketing. A handful of dhabas, including Surjit, Kesar and Bharawan, have either a Facebook page or a website. Last year, Bharawan’s owner, Subash Vij, 49, even opened an outpost at the food court in the city’s Alpha One mall. “Even in such an old and successful business, change is the law of nature,” he said.

He sat with us while we ate our thalis and saw that we needed more bread to help finish our mustard greens and yellow curry. An oversize leavened flatbread called a kulcha appeared, tempting us with its gentle steam and glistening ghee.

Bharati, Aditi and I eyed one another. Who would have the first bite? Without any discussion, all three of us tore off a piece at once.

Bring it on: March 2014 Food Events in the City

In this edition of Foodie Fortnight: free macarons, half-price wine and a farewell potluck party at the beloved Cookbook Store.

Macaron Day

This Thursday, French confectioners citywide will be passing out free macarons to all sweet-seekers. This handy Macaron Map makes it easy to locate dozens of participating patisseries.

Mar. 20. Various Locations, macarondayto.com

Farewell Potluck at The Cookbook Store

Toronto’s unofficial foodie hub is closing, but not without a grand send-off. Guests are requested to dress in red and bring a dish from their favourite cookbook.
Mar. 23. The Cookbook Store, 850 Yonge St., twitter.com

Battle Offal

Chefs from six hot Toronto restaurants, including Le Select, Geraldine and Hapa Izakaya, will be facing off in an epic culinary battle at The Drake. The star ingredients? Blood and guts.
Mar. 24. The Drake Hotel, 1150 Queen St. W., 416-531-5042, thedrakehotel.ca

Southern Feast at The County General

The four-course menu for this inspired Southern feast includes blackened chicken livers, stuffed pig trotters and sugarcane shrimp, plus lots of special bourbon-based cocktails.
Mar. 25-26. $40 (drinks not incl.). The County General, 936 Queen St. W., 416-531-4447, thecountygeneral.ca

Artisan Supper at Ruby Watchco

Poached black cod with “chicken-wing vinaigrette” is one of the incredible-sounding dishes on chef Lora Kirk’s five-course menu. The $150 price tag includes wine pairings from Norm Hardie.
Mar. 25. $150. Ruby Watchco, 730 Queen St. E., facebook.com

Chef Collaboration Dinner at Splendido

A handful of seats remain for this eight-chef, eight-course dinner at Splendido. The lineup of participating chefs reads like a who’s-who of Toronto dining: it includes Splendido’s Victor Barry, plus Auberge du Pommier’s Marc St. Jacques, Campagnolo’s Craig Harding and Nota Bene’s David Lee.
Mar. 27. $180. Splendido, 88 Harbord St., 416-929-7788, splendido.ca

Spring Thaw Dinner

Over 16 Toronto chefs—including Jamie Kennedy, Canoe chef Anthony Walsh and Hopgood’s Foodliner’s Geoff Hopgood—will celebrate the upcoming 2014 growing season with a culinary spring fling at the Palais Royale.
Mar. 31. $175. Palais Royale, 1601 Lake Shore Blvd. W., 647-499-7077, eventbrite.ca

Half-Price Wine

Each Tuesday this month, wines and sakes are 50 per cent off at Bent, Susur Lee’s Dundas West restaurant. The weekly deal puts most bottles firmly in the affordable $30 range.
Until Mar. 31. Bent, 777 Dundas St. W., 647-352-0092, bentrestaurant.com

Indian Street Food Festival

Throughout March, Amaya is serving a special menu devoted to modern takes on traditional Indian street-food snacks. Expect some unconventional fusion dishes, like kung pao chaat and saag-paneer pizza.
Until Mar. 31. Amaya The Indian Room, 1701 Bayview Ave., 416-322-3270 , amayarestaurant.com

http://www.torontolife.com/daily-dish/food-events/2014/03/18/foodie-fortnight-mar-18-2014/

More Veggie Options PLEEASE!

A Veggie cafe on Queen West, oh my~

Lipstick and Dynamite, 992 Queen St. W., 416-535-4554

Situated smack in the middle of one of Toronto’s most self-consciously cool bar zones, Lipstick and Dynamite—the name is an homage to a 2004 documentary about female professional wrestlers—is an anomaly. It feels like the kind of rec-roomy dive that might have stood in its place ten years ago, before exposed brick and barn board became compulsory bar decor. The floors are plain white tile, the walls plastered with 80s album covers and garage-sale art, and the bookshelves stuffed with paperback novels and second-hand board games. Owners Celeste Toledo and Steve Cann, who met and worked together at Kensington’s Exile, wanted to open a place that felt comfortable and lived-in: an unpretentious spot where locals could grab a low-key drink (beer, standard spirits and simple cocktails), or fill up on comforting vegetarian food, like chipotle-yam burgers and Reuben sandwiches made with mushrooms instead of meat. A recent post on the bar’s Facebook page sums up the bar’s ethos well (and suggests rowdy revelers may want to take a pass): “No assholes allowed, please.”

http://www.torontolife.com/daily-dish/drinks-dish/2014/03/17/lipstick-and-dynamite-toronto-bars-restaurants/

Toronto's New Celeb - The Butcher next Door

http://www.torontolife.com/daily-dish/features-dish/2014/03/18/the-butcher-next-door/?page=all#tlb_multipage_anchor_1