Back to A taste of Hyderabad A taste of Hyderabad
May 08, 2008
SANJEEV CHANDRA
SMITA CHANDRA 
Hyderabadi cooking.
AARON HARRIS PHOTO
The perfect biryani — that's what we were seeking. The flight into Hyderabad was filled with computer industry executives heading for the gleaming towers that mark the high-tech park known as Cyberabad, where the next generation of the world's computer software is being created. Our objective was much simpler, though no less profitable: to sample the famed cuisine of Hyderabad in the city where it was created.
True Hyderabadi cooking, locals told us, would be found near the Charminar, the medieval gateway that's the best-recognized symbol of the city. The four towering spires of the Charminar were a helpful landmark as we started our sightseeing, but even so, we soon lost our bearings, swept along by the crowds spilling out from the nearby mosque into the maze of alleyways that form the heart of the old city.
Being lost in the famous Laad Bazaar is no misfortune, for there's something new to see around every corner. The lanes are lined with shops brimming with the treasures Hyderabad is famed for — pearls, jewellery, inlaid metal work, silks, brocade, glassware and perfumes.
Delicious scents wafting down the street told us we had serendipitously found our destination: a restaurant whose biryani had been voted best in the city in a popular newspaper poll. The prize had certainly not been awarded for decor, which consisted of a long darkened room furnished with faded chintz couches. Large groups filled the booths, bearded men wearing sherwanis and a few women in burqas. But once the food arrived, all quibbles about interior design were forgotten, for this was an exquisite demonstration of the wonders of Hyderabadi cooking.
The centrepiece of the meal was, of course, the famed biryani: basmati rice fragrant with
saffron and studded with tender morsels of lamb. Accompanying the rice, as is traditional, was mirchi ka salan — green chilies cooked with toasted spices, peanuts and tamarind extract. Next came succulent kebabs and a bowl of pasanda (lamb pounded thin and simmered in a sautéed onion-almond cream sauce), eaten with naan. Dessert was faluda — vermicelli and tapioca seeds served in rose syrup mixed with milk.
The complex flavours of Hyderabadi food mirror the cultures that have come together to create it. The cuisine has evolved over centuries, shaped by a society that always prized refinement and good taste. When Sultan Quli Qutb Shah founded Hyderabad in 1591, he announced that it was to be "a replica of paradise itself." His new capital was built next to the ancient fort of Golconda, which guarded the only diamond mines known in the world at the time.
Merchants from every part of Asia and Europe came to buy diamonds, pearls, silver, carpets, brocades, swords, spices, cotton and silk fabrics. They were astonished by the wealth on display, which surpassed that of Mughal cities such as Delhi and Agra. The founder of the Qutb Shahi dynasty had come from Persia and the rulers of Hyderabad always maintained ties with the Persian empire, an ally against their mutual adversary, the Mughals. Persian literature, fashions and cuisine mingled with that of the Andhra population, creating a unique Hyderabadi culture.
Hyderabad seemed doomed when it fell to Mughal assaults in 1687. The invading army destroyed the fort of Golconda and the city was largely abandoned. Decades of decline followed. The Mughal empire began to disintegrate after the death of emperor Aurangzeb, and Asaf Jah, governor of the Deccan province, declared himself independent and established his capital in Hyderabad. As Delhi was battered by rebellion and invasion, many nobles moved to the new and flourishing city so that Mughal etiquette, style and tastes added to the cultural mix.
The cuisine of Mughal palaces fused Persian and Arab recipes with Indian cooking techniques and spices. The Persian dish of polo, rice cooked with butter and saffron, became pulao, in which meat, vegetables and spices were cooked with rice. In a burst of inspiration, Mughal chefs created biryani, in which a lamb or chicken dish was prepared and parboiled rice baked in the sauce, slowly absorbing flavours. Other Mughlai specialties included kebabs, korma, yakhni (meat cooked in a yogurt sauce) and do pyaza (meat with twice fried onions).
As chefs from Delhi and Lucknow migrated to South India, Mughlai dishes became part of Hyderabadi cuisine. They also experimented with seasonings used in Andhra cooking such as coconut, tamarind, curry leaves, hot chili peppers, mustard seeds and peanuts. Their recipes are found nowhere else in India. Baghare baingan is eggplant stuffed with coconut and spices cooked in a thick tamarind, peanut sauce. Dalcha is made from yellow split peas cooked with lamb, coconut, tamarind and curry leaves.
Devotion to good food is rooted deep in the heritage of Hyderabad. It is said that before Asaf Jah left Delhi, he sought the blessing of the famous Sufi saint Nizamuddin, who presented him with seven kulchas wrapped in a yellow cloth, predicting that seven generations of the Asaf Jahi dynasty would rule in Hyderabad. To honour this prophecy — which proved true — Hyderabad adopted a yellow banner with a kulcha in its centre.
Later official accounts denied this story, insisting that the symbol on the flag was a full moon. But Hyderabadis know in their hearts that a well-made kulcha is worth honouring, even to the extent of putting it on the national flag. The rest of us are grateful to them for creating a glorious cuisine we can all relish.
BAGHARE BAINGAN
Eggplant cooked with spices and nuts
Traditionally baghare baingan is made with baby eggplants, slit into quarters, leaving the stem end intact. They are stuffed with toasted spices and nuts and then cooked with garlic, chilies and tamarind. This recipe has been simplified. If you wish to serve mirchi ka salan with the biryani, follow this recipe, substituting green chilies for the eggplant.
5 tbsp vegetable oil
1 lb eggplant (about 1 medium-sized eggplant), cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tbsp sesame seeds
1 tbsp whole coriander seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
4 tbsp desiccated unsweetened coconut
2 whole dried red chilies, stemmed
2 tbsp unsalted roasted peanuts
1 tsp sugar
Salt to taste
½ tsp turmeric
1 oz tamarind, about the size of a small walnut
¾ cup water
¼ tsp each: black mustard seeds and fenugreek seeds
10-15 fresh curry leaves
2 green cardamom pods
2 whole cloves
½-inch stick cinnamon
2 cloves garlic, minced
½-inch piece ginger, minced
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro
Warm 3 tbsp oil in deep non-stick skillet over medium high heat. Add eggplant, sauté until half-cooked and seared, about 5 minutes. Don't overstir. Drain on paper towels, set aside.
Warm a small non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Add sesame, coriander and cumin seeds, desiccated coconut and dried red chilies. Stir for about 3 minutes until spices smell toasted and are lightly browned. Cool briefly, transfer to spice or coffee grinder, add peanuts. Grind until mixture is finely powdered. Transfer to small bowl; add sugar, salt and turmeric.
Place tamarind and ½ cup water in bowl and microwave 1 minute. Remove, mash with fork to soften and set aside to cool for 10 minutes. Mash again with fork. Place fine sieve or strainer over small bowl and pour tamarind into sieve. Squeeze out all liquid into bowl, discarding fibrous residue in sieve. You should have about 5 tbsp of tamarind extract.
Warm 2 tbsp oil in deep non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add mustard and fenugreek seeds, curry leaves, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon stick. After a few seconds, when spices splutter, add minced garlic and ginger. Sauté 1 minute, then add onions. Sauté until onions are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add eggplant, cook 1 minute. Reduce heat to low, add reserved spice peanut mixture, tamarind extract and ¼ cup water. Mix in gently, cover and cook 15 minutes until eggplant is tender and sauce thick. Fold in chopped fresh cilantro and serve.
Serves four
MURGH PASANDA KEBAB
Chicken morsels marinated in almonds, sour cream and spices, skewered and grilled
The famous pasanda curries of Hyderabad are made by simmering pieces of meat in a sautéed onion-almond cream sauce. The same ingredients come together in this marinade to create succulent chicken kebabs that are cooked on the barbecue, perfect for summertime grilling.
1 ¼ lb boneless skinless chicken breast, cut into 2-inch cubes
2 tbsp vegetable oil
½ tsp cumin seeds
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1-inch piece ginger, coarsely chopped
5 tbsp sour cream
2 tbsp ground almonds
1 tsp ground black pepper
½ tsp each: ground cardamom, garam masala and toasted crushed cumin seeds
¼ tsp saffron strands
Salt to taste
3 tbsp lemon juice
2 tbsp each: chopped fresh cilantro and mint leaves
3 tbsp melted butter
Set chicken aside in deep mixing bowl. Warm oil in non-stick skillet over medium high heat and add cumin seeds. After 30 seconds when they splutter, add onion, garlic and ginger. Sauté, stirring occasionally until softened, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and continue sautéing until golden, another 5 minutes.
Cool slightly, transfer to blender or food processor. Add sour cream, ground almonds, ground pepper, ground cardamom, garam masala, toasted cumin seeds, saffron, salt and lemon juice. Blend to a fine paste.
Add paste to chicken along with chopped fresh cilantro and mint. Toss well to coat chicken. Cover, refrigerate overnight or for at least 4 hours.
Thread chicken onto skewers and grill in a covered medium-hot barbecue for about 10 minutes. Turn skewers over and grill again for another 7 or 8 minutes until chicken is just cooked through. Uncover barbecue, brush skewers all over with butter and lightly char for 2 minutes. Slide chicken off skewers if desired and serve on platter.
Serves four
KHUBANI KA MEETHA
Stewed apricots served with cream
One of the most popular desserts of Hyderabad, khubani ka meetha is very simple to make yet elegant and incredibly delicious.
1 lb dried pitted apricots
¾ cup sugar
1 ½ cups water
2 green cardamom
¼ tsp saffron
2 tbsp sliced almonds
1 jar (170 g) English double Devon cream or whipped cream
Place apricots in deep bowl, cover with plenty of water and soak overnight or for at least 4 hours.
Drain and place in heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add sugar, water and cardamom. Bring to boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low and cook for ½ hour until apricots are very soft. Uncover, remove whole cardamom and mash apricots with stirring spoon, then add saffron. Cook 15 minutes, stirring and mashing occasionally. Apricots should be almost mashed up, with a thick jam-like consistency.
Transfer apricots to serving bowl. Crush sliced almonds with your fingers and scatter them over top. Cover and chill until ready to serve. Scoop out small portions into individual bowls and serve with a dollop of cream on top.
Serves four to six
HYDERABADI BIRYANI
Lamb cooked in a spicy sauce, layered and baked with rice
1 ½ lb cubed boneless leg of lamb
Salt to taste
½ tsp each of these ground spices: black pepper, cardamom seeds, cinnamon, nutmeg, mace, cayenne pepper, garam masala and saffron
1 tsp ground cumin seeds
4 tbsp unsalted butter
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic
½-inch piece ginger
2 green chilies
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 cup Balkan-style yogurt
2 tbsp each: chopped fresh coriander and mint
1 ½ cups basmati rice, washed
6 cups water
Place lamb in deep mixing bowl. Add salt, ground spices: black pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, mace, cayenne, garam masala, ¼ tsp saffron and cumin.
Warm 2 tbsp butter in skillet over medium high heat. Add onions and sauté until golden, about 15 minutes. Reserve half onions in small bowl and transfer rest to blender or mini food processor. Add garlic, ginger, green chilies, 1 tbsp lemon juice and yogurt. Blend to smooth paste.
Pour paste over lamb, along with chopped coriander and mint. Mix well to coat lamb. Cover, refrigerate overnight or for at least 4 hours.
Transfer lamb and all its marinade to a heavy bottomed saucepan. Bring to boil over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, about 2 minutes. Cover, reduce heat to medium low and cook lamb 1 hour, stirring occasionally. The lamb should be tender and sauce thick at end of cooking. Remove lamb pieces from sauce, reserve in bowl. You should have about 1-1 ¼ cup of sauce.
Preheat oven to 300F. Dissolve ¼ tsp saffron in 1 tbsp lemon juice, leave 15 minutes.
Bring water and salt to boil in large pot over high heat. Add washed rice and stir once gently. Once water boils again, reduce heat to medium and cook 6 minutes. The rice should have a hard centre and not be completely cooked through. Drain rice well and spread on tray to cool.
To assemble biryani, lightly grease a large flat ovenproof dish. Spread half the rice on bottom. Cover with lamb pieces. Top with remaining rice and drizzle sauce evenly all over. Spread reserved fried onions and drizzle saffron lemon juice. Dot evenly with 2 tbsp butter. Cover tightly with foil and bake 1 hour. Switch off oven and let biryani rest in warm oven 10 minutes. Transfer to platter and serve.
Serves four to six
Sanjeev Chandra is a professor of engineering at the University of Toronto. Smita Chandra is a freelance food writer, recipe developer and cooking instructor. Email desilife@thestar.ca.
