Wednesday 20 March 2013

Organic - What does Time Magazine Have To Say?

What's So Great About Organic Food?

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Looking for a quick way to feel lousy about yourself? Then forget the idea of a healthy diet and just eat what your body wants you to eat. Your body wants meat; your body wants fat; your body wants salt and sugar. Your body will put up with fruits and vegetables if it must, but only after all the meat, fat, salt and sugar are gone. And as for the question of where your food comes from — whether it's locally grown, sustainably raised, grass-fed, free range or pesticide-free? Your body doesn't give a hoot.

But you and your body aren't the only ones with a stake in this game. Your doctor has opinions about what you should eat. So does your family. And so too do the food purists who lately seem to be everywhere, insisting that everything that crosses your lips be raised and harvested and brought to market in just the right way. If you find this tiresome — even intrusive — you're not alone. "It's food, man. It's identity," says James McWilliams, a professor of environmental history at Texas State University. "We encourage people to eat sensibly and virtuously, and then we set this incredibly high bar for how they do it."  
The ideal — as we're reminded and reminded and reminded — is to go organic, to trade processed foods for fresh foods and the supermarket for the farmers' market. Organic foods of all kinds currently represent only about 3% of the total American market, according to the most recent numbers from the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), but it's a sector we all should be supporting more.

That sounds like a great idea, but we'll pay a price for it. Organic fruits and vegetables cost 13¢ to 36¢ per lb. more than ordinary produce, though prices fluctuate depending on the particular food and region of the country. Milk certified as hormone- and antibiotic-free costs $6 per gal. on average, compared with $3.50 for ordinary grocery-store milk.

What's more, while grass-fed beef is lower in fat, and milk without chemicals is clearly a good idea, it's less obvious that organic fruits and vegetables have a nutritional edge to speak of. A 2009 study in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition led to a firestorm in the food world. It found no difference between organic and conventional produce with regard to all but three of the vitamins and other food components studied, and conventional produce actually squeaked past organic for one of those three.
"We draw these bright lines between organic and conventional food," says McWilliams. "But science doesn't draw those lines. They crisscross, and you have people on both sides of the argument cherry-picking their data." For consumers trying to stay healthy and feed their families — and do both on budgets that have become tighter than ever — the ideological back-and-forth does no good at all. What's needed are not arguments but answers.
T
he Wages of Eating

The biggest reason not to ignore the food purists is that in a lot of ways they're right. Our diet is indeed killing us, and it's killing the planet too. Earlier this month, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention in Atlanta released a study revealing that nearly 27% of Americans are now considered obese (that is, more than 20% above their ideal weight), and in nine states, the obesity rate tops 30%. We eat way too much meat — up to 220 lb. per year for every man, woman and child in the U.S. — and only 14% of us consume our recommended five servings of fruits and vegetables per day. Our processed food is dense with salt and swimming in high-fructose corn syrup, two flavors we can't resist. Currently, enough food is manufactured in the U.S. for every American to consume 3,800 calories per day — we need only 2,350 in a healthy diet — and while some of that gets thrown away, most is gobbled up long before it can go stale on the shelves.

Organics Debate from a Different Perspective

Organic Food Conclusions 

David C. Holzman
http://ehp.niehs.nih.gov/120-a458/
David C. Holzman writes on science, medicine, energy, economics, and cars from Lexington and Wellfleet, MA. His work has appeared in Smithsonian, The Atlantic Monthly, and the Journal of the National Cancer Institute.

A widely reported Stanford University study1 concluding there is little difference in the healthfulness and safety of conventional and organic foods has been criticized by experts in the environmental health sciences for overlooking the growing body of evidence on the adverse effects of pesticides. Critics take to task the authors’ omission of relevant studies and overinterpretation of the data.The meta-analysis of 237 studies, published in the September 2012 Annals of Internal Medicine, largely focused on nutrient content and viral/bacterial/fungal contamination of organic versus conventionally grown foods. Nine studies reporting pesticide residues, including three of residues exceeding federal limits, were included in summary analyses.

The authors concluded that the studies reviewed do not support what they call the “widespread perception” that organic foods overall are nutritionally superior to conventional ones, although eating an organic diet may reduce exposures to pesticides and antibiotic-resistant bacteria.1 A Stanford press release quoted senior author Dena Bravata as saying, “There isn’t much difference between organic and conventional foods, if you’re an adult and making a decision based solely on your health.”2 (According to the Stanford Medical Center press office, Bravata is no longer doing interviews about the study.)

In one key finding, the team reported a “risk difference” of 30% between conventional and organic produce, meaning organic produce had a 30% lower risk of pesticide contamination than conventional produce. That number was based on the difference between the percentages of conventional and organic food samples across studies with any detectible pesticide residues (38% and 7%, respectively).

But the concept of risk difference is potentially misleading in this context, as the metric does not refer to health risk, according to Charles Benbrook, research professor and program leader for Measure to Manage (M2M): Farm and Food Diagnostics for Sustainability and Health at Washington State University. Furthermore, says Benbrook, “Pesticide dietary risk is a function of many factors, including the number of residues, their levels, and pesticide toxicity,” not just whether contamination was present.

In a letter accepted for publication in the Annals of Internal Medicine,3 Benbrook pointed to the Stanford team’s lack of consideration of extensive government data on the number, frequency, potential combinations, and associated health risks of pesticide residues in U.S. food. Using data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Pesticide Data Program,4 Benbrook calculated a 94% reduction in health risk attributable to eating organic forms of six pesticide-intensive fruits.3
The Stanford researchers also missed opportunities to examine the relationship of pesticides and health outcomes demonstrated in a growing number of cohort studies, says Brenda Eskenazi, a professor in the School of Public Health at the University of California, Berkeley. Eskenazi conducted one such study,5 one of a trio published in April 2011 that examined the relationship between cognitive development and prenatal pesticide exposures in two multiethnic inner-city populations6,7 and one farmworker community in California.5 One of the studies7 found deficits of seven IQ points in 7-year-old children in the highest quintile of pesticide exposure, compared with children in the lowest quintile, as measured by maternal urinary pesticide metabolite levels during pregnancy. Results were comparable in the other two studies.

In concluding that the evidence “does not suggest marked health benefits from consuming organic versus conventional foods,”1 many commenters, including Eskenazi and Benbrook, felt the Stanford team ignored risks to broader public health like those outlined in an April 2012 review by David C. Bellinger, a professor of neurology at Harvard Medical School. In his review Bellinger argued that subtle impacts of organophosphate pesticides on neurodevelopment can add up to substantial population-level impacts. He wrote, “It is frequently noted that a modest downward shift in mean IQ scores will be accompanied by a substantial increase in the percentage of individuals with extremely low scores.”8

Conventional toxicology testing is now being shown to miss responses that occur at doses that are orders of magnitude lower than previously established no-observed-adverse-effects levels,9 with potential implications for our understanding of pesticide safety. And others are finding in animal studies that pesticide exposures in utero can induce epigenetic changes that alter stress responses and disease rates in future generations.

In one study, exposure of rats to vinclozolin, a common agricultural fungicide, was associated with altered stress responses in the F3 generation (the original animals’ great grandchildren), compared with F3 progeny of unexposed animals.10 These responses were seen at high doses unlikely to be encountered as food residues but potentially applicable to agricultural workers. Exposures to the pesticides methoxychlor, DEET, permethrin, and vinclozolin, as well as dioxin (which can appear as an impurity in pesticides), also “predispose animals to develop a variety of adult-onset diseases earlier than normal,” says Michael Skinner, a professor in the Washington State University School of Biological Sciences who coauthored this study. He says these effects are “still detectable in animals over four subsequent generations, without diminution.”

In October 2012 the American Academy of Pediatrics weighed in, for the first time ever, on the question of whether children benefit from an organic diet.11 In a report published in Pediatrics, the academy recognized that an organic diet definitely reduces exposure to pesticides and may reduce diseases associated with antibiotic resistance but has not been proven to offer a clinically relevant nutritional advantage over a conventional diet. The academy emphasized the importance of providing children a diet rich in fruits, vegetables, whole grains, and low-fat or fat-free dairy products, regardless of whether the foods are conventional or organic, and provided resources for parents seeking guidance on which foods tend to have the heaviest pesticide residues.

References

1. Smith-Spangler C, et al. Are organic foods safer or healthier than conventional alternatives? A systematic review. Ann Intern Med 157(5):348–366 (2012); http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22944875.
2. Brandt M. Little evidence of health benefits from organic foods, Stanford study finds. Inside Stanford Medicine (3 Sep 2012). Stanford, CA:School of Medicine, Stanford University. Available: http://med.stanford.edu/ism/2012/september/organic.html [accessed 14 Nov 2012].
3. Benbrook C. Initial Reflections on the Annals of Internal Medicine Paper “Are Organic Foods Safer and Healthier than Conventional Alternatives? A Systematic Review.” Available: http://caff.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Annals_Response_Final.pdf [accessed 14 Nov 2012].
4. USDA. Pesticide Data Program Annual Summary, Calendar Year 2010. Washington, DC:Agricultural Marketing Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture (May 2010). Available: http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/getfile?dDocName=stelprdc5098550 [accessed 14 Nov 2012].
5. Bouchard MF, et al. Prenatal exposure to organophosphate pesticides and IQ in 7-year-old children. Environ Health Perspect 119(8):1189–1195 (2011); http://dx.doi.org/10.1289/ehp.1003185.
6. Engel SM, et al. Prenatal exposure to organophosphates, paraoxonase 1, and cognitive development in childhood. Environ Health Perspect 119(8):1182–1188 (2011); http://dx.doi.org/10.1289/ehp.1003183.
7. Rauh V, et al. Seven-year neurodevelopmental scores and prenatal exposure to chlorpyrifos, a common agricultural pesticide. Environ Health Perspect 119(8):1196–1201 (2011); http://dx.doi.org/10.1289/ehp.1003160.
8. Bellinger DC. A strategy for comparing the contributions of environmental chemicals and other risk factors to neurodevelopment of children. Environ Health Perspect 120(4):501–507 (2012); http://dx.doi.org/10.1289/ehp.1104170.
9. Vandenberg LN, et al. Hormones and endocrine-disrupting chemicals: low-dose effects and nonmonotonic dose responses. Endocr Rev 33(3):378–455 (2012); http://dx.doi.org/10.1210/er.2011-1050.
10. Guerrero-Bosagna C, et al. Epigenetic transgenerational inheritance of vinclozolin induced mouse adult onset disease and associated sperm epigenome biomarkers. Reprod Toxicol; http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.reprotox.2012.09.005 [online 2 Oct 2012].
11. Forman J, et al. Organic foods: health and environmental advantages and disadvantages. Pediatrics 130(5):e1406–e1415; http://dx.doi.org/10.1542/peds.2012-2579.

How Your Chicken Dinner Is Creating a Drug-Resistant Superbug

How Your Chicken Dinner Is Creating a Drug-Resistant Superbug

 
Continuing to treat urinary tract infections as a short-term, routine ailment rather than a long-term food safety issue risks turning the responsible bacteria into a major health crisis.
chicken-615.jpgkusabi/Flickr Adrienne LeBeouf recognized the symptoms when they started. The burning and the urge to head to the bathroom signaled a urinary tract infection, a painful but everyday annoyance that afflicts up to 8 million U.S. women a year. LeBeouf, who is 29 and works as a medical assistant, headed to her doctor, assuming that a quick course of antibiotics would send the UTI on its way.
That was two years ago, and LeBeouf has suffered recurring bouts of cystitis ever since. She is one of a growing number of women, and some men, who have unknowingly become infected with antibiotic-resistant versions of E. coli, the ubiquitous intestinal bacterium that is the usual cause of UTIs.
There is no national registry for drug-resistant infections, and so no one can say for sure how many resistant UTIs there are. But they have become so common that last year the specialty society for infectious-disease physicians had to revise its recommendations for which drugs to prescribe for cystitis -- and many infectious-disease physicians and gynecologists say informally that they see such infections every week.

Dr. Jehan El-Bayoumi, LeBeouf's physician and an associate professor of medicine at George Washington University Medical Center, said she has seen "a really significant increase, especially within the past two to three years."

But the origin of these newly resistant E. coli has been a mystery -- except to a small group of researchers in several countries. They contend there is persuasive evidence that the bacteria are coming from poultry. More precisely, coming from poultry raised with the routine use of antibiotics, which takes in most of the 8.6 billion chickens raised for meat in the U.S. each year.

Their research in the United States, Canada, and Europe (published most recently this month, in June, and in March) has found close genetic matches between resistant E. coli collected from human patients and resistant strains found on chicken or turkey sold in supermarkets or collected from birds being slaughtered. The researchers contend that poultry -- especially chicken, the low-cost, low-fat protein that Americans eat more than any other meat -- is the bridge that allows resistant bacteria to move to humans, taking up residence in the body and sparking infections when conditions are right. Touching raw meat that contains the resistant bacteria, or coming into environmental contact with it -- say, by eating lettuce that was cross-contaminated -- are easy ways to become infected.

"The E. coli that is circulating at the same time, and in the same area -- from food animal sources, retail meat, and the E. coli that's causing women's infections -- is very closely related genetically," said Amee Manges, Ph.D., an associate professor of epidemiology at McGill University in Montreal who has been researching resistant UTIs for a decade. "And the E. coli that you recover from poultry meat tends to have the highest levels of resistance. Of all retail meats, it's the most problematic that way."
Policy concern over antibiotic-resistant bacteria -- where they come from and how they affect human health -- is at a peak right now.

About 80 percent of the antibiotics sold in the United States each year are given to livestock as "growth promoters" that allow animals to put on weight more quickly, or as prophylactic regimens that protect against the confined conditions in which they are raised. (That figure, taken from FDA documents, is not universally accepted; the Animal Health Institute, an industry group, puts non-human use closer to 28 percent.) For decades, public health and agriculture have been at loggerheads over the practice. Health officials argue that these uses create resistant bacteria that move off large-scale farms via wind, water, dust, and in the animals themselves and the meat they become -- and create difficult-to-treat human infections. Agricultural interests counter that human infections have far more to do with medical misuse of antibiotics than with farming, and that the cost of stopping the drugs would be too great for producers to bear.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration which regulates agricultural use of antibiotics, has been aware for decades of evidence that farm overuse of antibiotics creates resistant human infections, but has done little to help. In 1977, the agency proposed withdrawing its own approvals for penicillin and tetracycline use as growth promoters, and the proposal remained on the books even though the FDA was repeatedly stymied by legislative opposition. Last December, the agency actually gave up, and announced that it was cancelling its then 34-year-old attempts, opting instead for a voluntary approach. But this March,and again in June, a district court judge in New York City ruled the FDA must go through with its original program for re-examining agricultural antibiotic use, including holding hearings to examine the drugs' off-farm effects.
Because UTIs are such an everyday occurrence, rising resistance has not been a major priority for medicine.
The proposed link between resistant bacteria in chickens and those causing UTIs is not the first time researchers have traced connections between agricultural antibiotic use and human illness. But because the UTI epidemic is so large and costly, the assertion that it might be tied to chicken production has brought renewed attention to the issue.

Investigators have been examining a possible link between growth promoters, chickens, and human infections since at least 2001, when Manges and others published in the New England Journal of Medicine an analysis of clusters of UTIs in California, Michigan, and Minnesota. The striking thing at the time was that the clusters appeared to be outbreaks caused by very similar E. coli strains that were resistant to the common drug Bactrim. In the United States, one out of every nine women has a UTI every year. If a single small group of E. coli was causing some proportion of the infections, that would be alarming -- but it might also offer a clue to defusing the overall epidemic. Initially, though, the researchers had no idea where the strains were coming from.

As a follow-up, Manges and other investigators looked for vehicles that might be transporting particular E. coli strains. That was an unusual challenge, because E. coli is one of the most common organisms on the planet, with a huge variety residing in the guts of humans and every warm-blooded animal, and in reptiles and fish as well. The particular subset of strains they examined are called "ExPEC," for "extra-intestinal pathogenic E. coli" -- that is, E. coli that escapes the gut to cause illness elsewhere in the body, including in the urinary tract.

ExPECs were already a medical-research concern, because E. coli that moves from the gut into the bladder may not stay there. Infections that are not treated can climb up to the kidneys and enter the bloodstream. ExPEC E. coli cause up to 40,000 deaths from sepsis -- the most serious form of bloodborne bacterial infection -- in the United States each year, and since about 2000, antibiotic resistance in ExPEC strains has been climbing.

In 2005, University of Minnesota professor of medicine Dr. James R. Johnson published results of two projects in which he analyzed meat bought in local supermarkets during 1999-2000 and 2001-2003. In both cases, he found resistant ExPEC E. coli strains that matched ones from human E. coli infections. Other researchers soon found similar matches in meat--particularly poultry--from across Europe, in Canada, and in additional studies from Minnesota and Wisconsin.

In that research, investigators began to sort out two things. They became convinced that the resistance pattern could be traced back to animal antibiotic use, because resistance genes in the bacteria causing human infections matched genes found in bacteria on conventionally raised meat. And they began to understand that E. coli's complexity would make this new resistance problem a difficult one to solve. The strains that cross to humans via poultry meat "don't establish themselves as big, successful lineages" of bacteria that would be easy to target, Johnson said. "But collectively they can cause a lot of infections, because there are just so many of them and they're so diverse."

There has been no way, to this point, to prove that a single specific UTI arose from a portion of meat that in turn came from a single animal given antibiotics. The investigators tracing the connection acknowledge this is a weakness in their case, but point out that modern medical ethics do not permit experimenters to deliberately cause infections in healthy humans as a way to prove a disease risk. What researchers do, in cases like this, is to gather evidence from big groups of people that shows a disease emerging on a population level -- and based on the molecular evidence from animals, meat, and humans, they believe they have done so with ExPEC E.coli from chicken and UTIs.

Not everyone agrees, of course. Dr. Charles Hofacre, professor at the University of Georgia's Center for Food Safety and an officer of the American Association of Avian Pathologists, points out that while the resistance factors in chicken- and human-associated bacteria resemble each other, no study has yet proven that a transfer occurs. Antibiotic resistance is so common, Hofacre said, that "it isn't surprising that genes carried by human E. coli are going to be similar to resistance genes in chicken E. coli -- or pig E. coli, or salamander E. coli." He adds: "That doesn't necessarily mean the antibiotic resistance genes in the human came from the salamander, or the chicken or the pig."

Dr. Randall Singer of the University of Minnesota's College of Veterinary Medicine points out that some recent research suggests that antibiotic resistance genes in E. coli may actually originate from humans, spreading through sewage into ground and surface waters, and from there into the environment and livestock. The resistance found in human and poultry E. coli "is a typical multi-drug resistant pattern that you find all over the world, including in wild animal populations that have had no exposure to" humans, he said. "To say these genes exist in a person because of an antibiotic that was given to a chicken is too narrow an interpretation."
The cost in the United States of treating UTIs runs more than $1 billion per year.
On the front lines of medicine, physicians report that they regularly see rising amounts of resistant infections in patients for whom the resistance has no obvious explanation -- for example, in patients who have not been treated in a hospital or other health-care facility where antibiotics might have been overused or misused. Because they are front-line physicians, and not microbiologists, these doctors do not analyze their patients' diets and match their infections to any animal strains. But when they do perform enough genetic analysis of their patients' infections to be able to tell which drugs will work, they see the same resistance factors in their patients' E. coli that Johnson, Manges, and others have spotted in their research. And for many of them, the proposed connection between agricultural antibiotic use, resistant animal infections, and resistant human infections makes intuitive sense. And particularly in the case of the new outbreaks of UTIs.

"Medicine certainly does contribute to [antibiotic-resistant bacteria], but there have been studies of other infectious diseases that have implicated animals and antibiotics in propagating certain types of infections," said Dr. Connie Price, chief of infectious diseases at Denver Health & Hospital in Colorado. "It makes sense to me that resistant urinary tract infections could absolutely be one of those."

In Washington, El-Bayoumi said resistant UTIs are common among her patients, describing one woman whose infection did not respond to the first drug she tried but did to the second, and another whose infection recurred despite rounds of three different antibiotics before finally responding to a fourth drug. She has treated LeBeouf for nine recurrences so far without ever being able to eradicate her multi-drug resistant infection. "It stops for a while, and then it eases back in," said LeBeouf, who describes losing work hours and sleep time to the nagging pressure and pain. "We do a urine culture to see what medications will work. Dr. El-Bayoumi's at the point where she is saying, 'I don't know what else we can do.'"

People unlucky enough to contract these infections describe a consistent pattern. They assume they have an ordinary UTI, go to their doctors for treatment, get a prescription, and feel better for a few days -- and then are puzzled to find that the same painful symptoms are recurring, and they have to return to the doctor again.

Because UTIs are such an everyday occurrence, the problem of rising resistance -- along with the question of where the resistance comes from -- has not been a major priority for medicine. Nor has tracing the possible cause back to chicken: by the time women realize they need treatment, they usually have long forgotten when and how they might have been in contact with raw meat, and their doctors are seldom epidemiologists.

"We tend to dismiss bladder infections as trivial," said Dr. Richard Colgan, an associate professor at the University of Maryland School of Medicine. "But a woman who gets one -- and they mostly occur in women -- usually endures symptoms for an average of a week until she can get treated. She usually has to miss school or work on average of one week. A woman on average will postpone sexual relations for a week."

The victims are not always women. And the infections are not always uncomplicated. The cost in the United States of treating UTIs runs more than $1 billion per year, including hospitalizations for the most serious complications and intermediate care for patients whose infections are resistant to the easy-to-administer drugs.

There have been a few times, in the past few decades, where disease-causing E. coli crossing to humans from meat became a national priority. The poster-child case is E. coli O157:H7, which became notorious after the 1993 Jack-in-the-Box hamburger outbreak in which hundreds were sickened and three children died; in response, the U.S. Department of Agriculture declared the O157 strain an adulterant, making it illegal to distribute. But in contrast, it took almost two more decades -- until September last year -- for other similar strains to be declared adulterants as well.
Researchers who have been tracking the highly resistant E. coli wonder what it will take for these strains to have their Jack-in-the-Box moment. They cause more illness than O157 -- but in a diffuse, slow-moving epidemic that even the victims may not know they are part of, like the current outbreaks of antibiotic-resistant UTIs. And defusing this one will be far more politically complex, because it will require addressing the economic imperatives that drive farmers to use antibiotics -- and consumers' role in supporting large-scale agriculture as well.

"I see people voting with their feet, buying cheap produce, meat that is less expensive, eggs that are less expensive," said Dr. Jorge Parada, professor of medicine and infectious disease at Loyola University's Stritch School of Medicine in Chicago. "My personal point of view is, this is unsustainable in the long run. It has a whole series of side effects that are not negligible, and antibiotic resistance is important among them."

The Organic Debate - Organic Food Isn't More Nutritious, but That Isn't the Point

 Organic Food Isn't More Nutritious, but That Isn't the Point

That doesn't mean it's not healthier. How our obsession with organics' "healthiness" led us away from the term's roots
organic-615.jpgericksonkee/Flickr Of all the food-related countercultural buzzwords that have gone mainstream in recent years, organic ranks among the most confusing. Like its cousins (cf. local, free-range, or worst of all, natural), the term's promotion by grocery stores everywhere has caused it to escape the strict definitions laid out by the USDA . But from Stanford University comes new research suggesting what we should have known all along: organic food isn't actually more nutritious than traditionally-farmed goods.
In a widely publicized and discussed analysis of more than 200 studies comparing organic to regular food products, researchers have found that organics don't have more vitamins or minerals (with the lone exception of phosphorus, which we all get in sufficient amounts anyway). Nor do they have an appreciable effect when it comes to heading off food-borne illness, although the germs found in conventional meat do have a higher chance of being drug-resistant (more on that in a bit).

That we needed a study to understand how nutritionally similar organic foods are to non-organics is a perfect example of the way we've lost sight of what the term really means. It's worth keeping in mind that organic refers only to a particular method of production; while switching to organic foods can be good for you insofar as doing so helps you avoid nasty things like chemicals and additives, there's nothing in the organic foods themselves that gives them an inherent nutritional advantage over non-organics. In other words, it's not wrong to say organic food is "healthier" than non-organics. It's just unrealistic to think that your organic diet is slowly turning you into Clark Kent. (You laugh, but according to a Nielsen study cited by USA Today, a ton of people believe just that, or something close to it. Fifty-one percent of those surveyed said they bought organic food because they thought it was more nutritious.)

Still, there are important reasons beyond nutrition to choose organic foods. Let's start at the source: USDA rules prohibit food makers from labeling something organic unless it can prove that at least 95 percent of a product was made using organic processes, which are themselves defined as:

A production system that is managed in accordance with the Act and regulations in this part to respond to site-specific conditions by integrating cultural, biological, and mechanical practices that foster cycling of resources, promote ecological balance, and conserve biodiversity.

For all the attention devoted to the ways organic is better for you, we should remember that organic began chiefly as an argument about the environment. From the agency's perspective, to buy organic is to respect the land your food came from. It means taking pains to ensure that your farms remain bountiful and productive, even decades from now. The case is one part self-interest over the long term, and one part a statement of ethics. Not really what you'd expect from a mechanical bureaucratic institution.

Buying organic is also a statement about public health. Nowhere is this clearer than in the case of antibiotics. Conventional farms have been putting the stuff in animal feed for decades -- even though we've known since the 1970s about the health hazards that the animal use of antibiotics poses for humans. Reducing society's chances of inadvertently creating a superbug is a good reason to purchase organic foods.

There are the more immediate health benefits of buying organic: you'll avoid the chemicals, preservatives, and hormones that conventional farms often use to treat their foods. In the Stanford study, just 7 percent of organic foods were found to have traces of pesticides, compared to 38 percent of conventionally-farmed produce. Again, that doesn't mean organic foods will supercharge your health -- you'll just be at less risk of exposure to potentially harmful substances, for whatever that's worth to you. Quantifying that benefit is a contentious area and certainly worthy of more research.

And then there's the reason many people find most compelling of all: the health of workers in the field. For some consumers, buying organic is a human-rights issue. Reading Atlantic contributor Barry Estabrook's Tomatoland on the ruinous health problems of tomato planters and pickers in Florida because of the use of herbicides and pesticides is enough to make almost anyone choose organic over non-organic. Yes, there are safety rules in place for the use of these lethal chemicals, but as Estabrook's work and the the work of others shows, those rules are frequently not followed.
Even if organic foods may not be uniquely nutritionally fortified as many of us have grown accustomed to thinking, don't write them off just yet. They still mean a great deal. And besides -- it seems unfair to judge organic crops for failing to do something they never claimed to be capable of in the first place. They're simply the victims of our projection.

http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2012/09/organic-food-isnt-more-nutritious-but-that-isnt-the-point/261929/

The momentum of the "Jesus Year"


Yes I admit I was born in 1980 - and yes this makes me old. At one point in my life I sported a side pony tail, jelly bracelets and matching shoes, short shorts, a slap wrist band, neon clothing and loved loved loved watching George of the Jungle, Heman and Jem! Now I dont dress as cool and say old people things like "do you remember when...".

This year being 2013 makes it my Jesus year! I need to do something big this year - the question is what.....


What is a Jesus Year: 

 So, what exactly is a Jesus Year? The term cropped up periodically on early blogs and Myspace pages, but only now appears to be gaining traction among those trying to make the increasingly difficult transition from adolescence to adulthood.

The ‘Jesus Year’ is age 33, the year that scholars generally believe Jesus of Nazareth was probably arrested and crucified in Jerusalem after starting a spiritual, political and intellectual revolution. The ‘Jesus Year’ is now also becoming the age in which young people – not necessarily only Christians, but everyone in this multicultural society – decide it’s time to get serious about life, time to accomplish something.

This is the definition found in the Urban Dictionary: “Time to get moving and get things done (maybe).”  

Other suggested readings include: The Rise of the Jesus Year -

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/the-rise-of-the-jesus-year/article4106919/?page=all
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=jesus%20year

A Few Lessons for Grace Restaurant in Toronto

It’s rare that I have to rant about the crap service I received at an expensive - takes it self-serious - restaurant (in fact this is the first) but I have to rant....A few months ago during the midst of renovations, my beloved and I decided to hit the town and have a nice meal. We stumbled across "Grace" located at 503 College St, Toronto http://gracerestaurant.ca/

I recall reading a number of wonderful reviews a long while ago about this place and recall Toronto Life rating a must eat at place at some point in history!

see the 2008 article - http://www.torontolife.com/features/grace/
see teh 2005 article - http://news.nationalpost.com/2012/05/05/restaurant-review-grace/

My hopes were high, but was I disappointed or what!!!!!!!  Bottom-line, the service was abominable. The worst! It was so bad I must write them a letter to express my sheer disappointment. One would assume time would heal my disappointment but months later I am still pissed about the experience. I should have know better as the articles that I read were over 5 years old - perhaps if the National Post and Toronto Life returned their reviews would not be so positive.

I'm not going to be petty and get into all the things they did wrong. I believe in moving forward. As such I have compiled a few lessons that small restaurant owners may want to try working on.

Here are a few lessons Grace might want to consider incorporating in their staff training:

1) Lesson 1 - if you restaurant is not busy ie. there are only 5 patrons in the place, don’t seat anyone at the back of the restaurant next to the kitchen. This will piss off your patrons.

2) Lesson 2 - servers, don’t offer suggestions about your menu and then, after selling your patron on the item, return and ask them to select something else as it is sold out. Why not check with the kitchen before suggesting.

3) Lesson 3 - Avoid  having your servers stand around and chitter - chat away, by the kitchen, about where they are going after their shift ends, next to the patrons you seated beside the kitchen. Not only does it suck to sit by the kitchen because it is poorly lit, drafty, and uncomfortable (not to mention the staff keep walking by you with trays and food) - but noone is interested in hearing about the servers late night plans, especially when they are paying $27.00 for a tiny little piece of duck.

It should be stressed that there are hundreds of fantastic restaurants in the City of Toronto. One bad experience – or in Grace’s case, 3 bad experiences – will result in me never returning to your restaurant or recommending it and most of all, me telling everyone I know how disappointing the experience was.

Back to Gwen's Cook Book - The Huffington Post Perspective


 This is a very interesting article re: Gwyn's cookbook and diet. We all love Gwyn for her vegan, gluten free, low carb diet and mantra for healthy eating. She has inspired me with her slogan - Im not on a diet - I just choose to eat healthy, fresh and un-processed foods. Wow! I would like a one way ticket on the Gwyn food train and never look back at all the crap I have left behind, then again maybe Ill get a return fare just in case....

Read the wonderful article by the Huffington Post below re: Gwyn's second cook book - the latest and greatest sequel to her last book "My Father's Daughter" which was a hit (I loved it!).  It appears as though she turnd Hugginton's writers off with her mind numbingly basic recipes such as boiled organic egg, "avocado on toast" and popcorn. As if even the most useless individual (and we all know someone) cant make toast or freakin popcorn. Girl you need to step up your game otherwise you might get beat by other celebs such as the beautiful and majical Eva!!!

The best line I have ever read is in the article below: "We have no business, education or interest in debunking the effectiveness of an elimination diet as a health practice, but here's one thing we can tell you from a place of authority: a life without cheese, oysters, french fries, a fresh tomato salad in the summer, ratatouille in the winter, a hot toddy when we're cold or a pulled pork sandwich is not a life. It's a countdown."

You have now read what I have to say, let me know what you think!

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/03/19/gwyneth-paltrow-cookbook_n_2910065.html

Gwyneth Paltrow's New Cookbook, 'It's All Good' Is Questionably Useful

Gwyneth Paltrow, Oscar-winning actress, occasional eater of food and person responsible for unleashing GOOP on us all, is soon releasing her second cookbook, It's All Good. Just about every corner of the internet has found something to say about its impending release, content, dreamy country-utopia-motif and whether a low-carb, gluten-free, dairy-free diet is really appropriate for the "kids' menu." We'd love to say it wasn't all deserved, but honestly, we just don't know anymore.
Paltrow has, in part, done this to herself. She insisted we all pay attention to how much she liked food, then seemed to completely eschew it, in favor of raw, macrobiotic juices, or wood shavings, or whatever that phase was, and is now back to tell us all what an "elimination diet" is and why we should give it a whirl. If you're looking for almost suspiciously vitriolic rhetoric about Paltrow's roller-coaster of food ideology, you'll find it in Hailey Eber's New York Post review of the book. Looking for a line-by-line mockery of some of the most unawarely bourgeois food writing ever applied to paper? Eater takes care of that in their ritual "Best Lines Of" the book post.

As for us at HuffPost Taste, we're going to try really, really hard to keep this about the food, as this is a space devoted to that and we are, in fact, talking about a cookbook (even though it is very easy to occasionally think that you are paging through a J Crew catalogue). We knew things were going to get rough when we counted roughly 35 photos of Gwyneth, as compared to the roughly 86 photos of food in the book. For those keeping track, that's nearly one quarter of the photos in this cookbook.
This all happened because Paltrow had a panic attack. In truth, her busy lifestyle (in which she included too many French fries and glasses of wine, sigh) had shoved some of her dietary levels out of whack, and she was suffering from a few other hidden health problems, but mostly she had a migraine and thought she was having a stroke. GIRL, we've been there. But then she wrote a cookbook about it.

Here is how she describes the elimination diet her doctor put her on to alleviate her ailments: "no coffee, no alcohol, no dairy, no eggs, no sugar, no shellfish, no deepwater fish, no potatoes, no tomatoes, no bell pepper, no eggplant, no corn, no wheat, no meat, no soy, nothing processed at all." You know, when a doctor tells us to abstain from alcohol for a while, we don't like it, but we get it. If my doctor ever seriously leaned across the table and started telling me I needed to cut out vegetables? First, I would lay down on the floor. Then I would find another doctor.
We have no business, education or interest in debunking the effectiveness of an elimination diet as a health practice, but here's one thing we can tell you from a place of authority: a life without cheese, oysters, french fries, a fresh tomato salad in the summer, ratatouille in the winter, a hot toddy when we're cold or a pulled pork sandwich is not a life. It's a countdown.

With that in mind, we'd like to share with you the three most mind-numbing things Gwyneth Paltrow thinks you need a recipe for, as detailed in It's All Good.

So, yes. This is a thing that happened. Paltrow says, "Truthfully, this is the one 'recipe' both Julia and I make and eat most often! And it's not even a recipe."
Can we all agree to one thing: from now on, when you are writing a cookbook, if the first thing you think about an item within it is that it's "not a recipe," don't put it in a cookbook. Strongly suggest it to friends. Put it on GOOP, if you have to, but please, do not put it in a cookbook. For all of us. The secret to this avocado toast? Vegenaise. Which, it appears, is what Paltrow and her co-author Julia Turshen have been subsisting on.

"Camerino's Popcorn" to be specific. It has olive oil and salt on it. What distinguishes this from just making your own popcorn? A precious story about her kids liking one of her friends, because she makes them popcorn.

We had to include this shot of the book for you to believe it. Ingredients: 1 fresh organic egg. No, seriously. We suppose we admire Paltrow's commitment to comprehensiveness, The Joy of Cooking is already a cookbook. With cheese in it.

Wednesday 13 March 2013

Mirchi Ka Salan - A taste of paradise


Mirchi ka Salan - A taste of paradise
This dish will convert those who do not believe in religion and God into die hard devout believers! Mirchi ka Salan can take any dinner party to the next level and will leave your guests talking about the food for years to come. I still recall the mouth watering taste of the Mirchi ka Salan my mother made some 25 years ago for our first housewarming party. Believe me, you will take a moment to thank God for giving you a taste of heaven once you have tried this dish!
See what Beyond Cutty has to say about it:
The combination of peanuts and green capsicum (a.k.a. jalapeños) is quite popular in Indian cuisine. Mirchi Salan, where mirchi means chilli pepper and salan roughly translates to gravy, is a popular dish in Hyderabadi homes. If you can't take the heat of the jalapeños, you could replace them with bell peppers.
There are many big flavors in this dish. And the peanuts lend a nice balance to the heat and roasted spices.

When I first tasted Mirchi Salan, it was as a side to a biryani that my friend had made. Like most Indians, she obsessed about the fact that one of her guests might be one of the 'curry drenchers' who needs to have gravy even with a biryani that's moist enough with all the masalas. I ended up eating embarrassing amounts of it. And taking the recipe home to make it the next day as well.
So, if a bunch of fresh green jalapeños are staring at you at a market, grab them quick and try out this recipe. You'll be giving the jalapeños and yourself a huge treat.
 

Chicken taken to a whole new level - Chicken Ghee Roast

Ghee is one of those things that you cannot have enough of. It's made in most Indian homes with the cream that emerges from the top of a freshly boiled pot of milk. The cream is traditionally skimmed off the surface of a cooled pot of milk then stored, until there's enough collected to make a batch that will last a few weeks. But ghee can also be procured more easily in markets, and added to many delicious creations. Like this Manglorean Chicken Ghee Roast.

'Roast' is a word used quite loosely in the south of India. It means more braising than actually sticking the meat into an oven. There are a host of 'roast' dishes using prawns, lamb, and pork and each one deserves complete attention.

While most Indian recipes start with the frying of spices in the fat before adding the meat, this dish braises the chicken first and adds the spices into the same pot to cook slowly and coat each tender morsel.

http://www.seriouseats.com/beyond_curry/

Dabbawalla - also known as tiffen express!

Video: A Day in the Life of a Dabbawalla Delivering Lunches in Mumbai

http://www.seriouseats.com/2013/03/the-best-food-delivery-service-in-the-world.html?ref=title


Each day in Mumbai, a group of men called Dabbawallas transport 175,000 homemade lunches from Indian homes to their family members' offices. They carry the tiffens ("lunch containers") on their heads, on bicycles, on trains and even across the tracks to get to the offices where husbands and sons of the ladies who prepared the food are awaiting lunch. Despite the various modes of transport, the lunches always arrive on time. It's a pretty impressive feat and we were lucky enough to follow a couple Dabbawallas for a day in Mumbai.

Monday 11 March 2013

The age old question - should I open it or not....Which wine keeps better after it’s opened, white or red?

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/wine/which-wine-keeps-better-after-its-opened-white-or-red/article9261412/

The question
What kind of wine holds better after it’s opened, white or red?

The answer
Generally speaking, red will last longer. Red wine contains tannins, dusty compounds derived from skins and seeds that help shield juice from oxygen. Contact with air eventually kills the wine, robbing it of fruity flavour and imparting a cooked or bruised quality. Unlike reds, the vast majority of whites are separated from skins prior to fermentation, so their tannin content is negligible.
Flavour loss depends on the wine style, though. Lighter reds, such as gamay and pinot noir, tend to contain lower tannin levels, so they spoil faster than fuller-bodied reds, such as cabernet sauvignon and merlot.
There are other variables. Cold curbs the pace of spoilage. So if you’re in the habit of storing opened whites in the fridge and reds on the counter – the common practices – you may notice that your whites survive better than, say, gamay or pinot noir but perhaps not as well as cabernet. I’d suggest the fridge no matter which colour. You can always let reds warm up on the counter for an hour prior to serving. Either way, a half-finished bottle will lose its vigour and freshness considerably after about two or three days.
Should you wish to extend the shelf life even longer, try the freezer. It won’t harm the wine, at least not much. Just be sure the fill level has been reduced by at least a couple of ounces. Liquids expand when frozen. That’s why an unopened bottle will shatter or push up the cork in the freezer.

The Globe’s 10 best places for Chinese food in Toronto (Hint: Go north)

Ahemmm - I dont so....DT TO is holding its own....thanks for coming out!

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/restaurant-reviews/the-globes-10-best-places-for-chinese-food-in-toronto-hint-go-north/article9237179/

All respect to downtown Toronto’s east and west Chinatowns, but for the best Chinese food, you need to head north. Chris Nuttall-Smith combed through Markham, Thornhill and Richmond Hill in search of great Chinese eating, and from glorious noodle soups to the GTA’s best Peking duck, to strange, but exquisite sweets, he found it in abundance. Here are his top picks.

Dayali Beijing Roast Duck
If you thought that only flannel-clad and bewhiskered downtowners would subject themselves to crazy lineups at hot new restaurants, you haven’t been to Dayali, the five-month-old, first international outpost of a respected Peking duck empire from Beijing. By 6 p.m., the line typically spills out the banquet room’s front door. For $38.88 you get the Gold Medal Roast Duck: a party-sized platter of crisp, dark-golden skin that Beijingers typically dip in white sugar and hoisin, followed by a heaping plate of sliced meat and skin that you roll up with chopped scallion, cucumber and condiments into paper-thin crepes. This isn’t the usual Cantonese barbecued duck that’s common in Chinatown windows; the Peking version is crispier and far more subtly flavoured – much less about the meat than the texture and full-fat glory of that burnished mahogany skin. There’s plenty else beyond the main attraction. The shrimp and eggs scramble is runny and superb, studded with fat, coral-coloured seafood. There’s whole, Vancouver-style crab, noodles, excellent vegetable plates, meat dishes and bullfrog. Chinese pears are available for dessert. 20 Gibson Dr., Markham, 905-604-8680

Northern Dumpling Kitchen
You won’t find a live-fish tank here, proper tablecloths (they use white plastic, thank you) or the foie gras and abalone pastries that have become commonplace in many nouveau South Chinese restaurants. Northern Dumpling traffics in the hearty, ruddy-cheeked and huge-flavoured cooking of cold-weather China: fat pork wontons smothered with hot chili, peanut sauce and scallions, deliciously gamy steamed lamb dumplings that you douse in tart-sweet red rice vinegar, pan fried dumplings filled with leeks and pork. The onion pancake roll and sliced beef (number 120) is a mustn’t miss – the roll is hot and flaky and the beef is fantastic. The deep-fried silver roll (number 123) is a loaf of lily-white bread that pulls away in diaphanous strands that are meant to be drenched in condensed milk; it’s sweet hillbilly decadence, China-style. Unit 52A, 550 Highway 7 E. (at Leslie Street), Richmond Hill, 905-881-3818

Yang’s Fine Chinese Cuisine
The GTA’s Southern Chinese dim sum restaurants come in three categories, generally: cheap and cheerful steam-cart joints, better-quality midrange rooms, and high-end places where ceremony (did you see how many pleats they got into that dumpling wrapper?), luxury ingredients (they’re often buried under mayonnaise) and gloopy architecture (see: The Crown Princess, Toronto) often reign. Yang’s does high-end dim sum with a measure of restraint. The room is spare and modern, the atmosphere relaxed, the cooking generally excellent. The rice rolls with scallops and XO sauce are a good bet, as are the barbecue pork and pineapple pastries and the fat har gow dumplings. The steamed soft egg-custard buns combine sweet, salty, oozy egg yolk and white-bread softness. The fried turnip cakes are also great. The “crispy foie gras and mango rolls” seem more about status ingredients than tasting good; they come smothered in mayo. 9665 Bayview Ave., Richmond Hill, 905-884-3388

Phoenix Restaurant
Phoenix is a cleaned-up take on Hong Kong’s curious diner-food tradition. Some of my Chinese friends love it; another disparagingly calls it “Spring Rolls,” after downtown’s pseudo “Pan-Asian Zensation” chain. (She’s a devotee of New City Restaurant, a keepin’-it-real Hong Kong diner at Kennedy Road and Highway 7.) Phoenix’s menu is massive, running from comfort standards like Horlick’s and Ribena to grass jelly teas, to fried spaghetti, to luncheon meat (read: Spam) and eggs on rice. But the go-to dish is the Hainanese chicken and rice: bone-in chicken pieces poached in amber poultry broth, then served with rice that’s been steamed in broth and fat. It’s simple, homey stuff; amazing, too – juicy, fragrant and deep-down comforting, particularly when you dip it in the ginger sauce. Be warned: chicken and rice is massively contested; for every Chinese or Singaporean or Malaysian who loves the rendition at Phoenix, you can find another four who say the rice isn’t quite right, or that the chicken should be pinker. Whatever. It’s delicious. 8190 Bayview Ave., Thornhill (and two other locations), 905-886-1113

369 Shanghai Dim Sum
While nearby Ding Tai Fung, a knockoff of a famous Taiwan-based restaurant chain, still claims plenty of visitors in search of xiaolongbao, or soup-filled steamed buns, the smart money heads to 369 – a friendly, well-run spot in the Peach Tree plaza. Xiaolongbao are typically thin-skinned, purse-shaped, wheat dough wrappers filled with collagen-rich stock and meat or seafood. At 369 they’re called “juicy buns,” and come stuffed with conpoy (dried scallop), crab, or pork. Pick one up by the top with your chopsticks and hold it over a spoon, being careful not to pierce it. Dip it in red rice vinegar, dress it with ginger, nip the side, quickly slurp out the broth (careful, it’s hot!), then eat the dumpling. Another must-try: the “steamed rice glue with salted stuffing.” (The English language is not the menu’s strong suit.) It’s sticky rice rolled around a deep-fried, cruller-style pastry, wispy threads of pork floss (exactly what it sounds like) and pickled radish. To recap, that’s white starch, vegetables, pork candy and doughnut, all in one irresistible bite-size package. Or as I like to think of it, reason No. 4,439 for why China will soon take over the entire world. 8380 Kennedy Rd., Markham, 905-305-7713

John’s Chinese BBQ Restaurant
To my mind there is just one great reason to come here: for the King of Kings pork, which is not on the menu, which you should call ahead to order, and which also risks ruining other barbecue pork dishes for all eternity. The King of Kings is tender belly, sweet-lacquered, gently candied, mildly burnt in places. It’s sliced thick and served over firm, sweet-braised soy beans. It’s one of the greatest pork dishes anywhere, made even better with a round of Tsing Tao beer and a dish of steamed green vegetables. Order rice on the side and the sweet, red-bean soup kissed with orange peel to finish. There are other dishes, of course – jiggly fish maw, whole steamed bass (I could have sworn it was tilapia), decent if workaday barbecue duck. But the pork is the killer dish. 328 Hwy 7 E., Richmond Hill, 905-881-3333

Bowl Kee
If you grew up, as I did, squeezing packets of Lee Kum Kee plum sauce over deep-fried egg rolls in red-carpeted rooms with names like “Golden Dragon,” you’ll recognize the feel of Bowl Kee. It’s cheap, cheerful, thick in the air with the smell of wok hei – the breath of the wok – and just a little bit dingy. It’s every bit an old-school Canadian-Chinese egg roll joint, except the cooking isn’t Canadian-Chinese. Bowl Kee specializes in unfussy Cantonese cooking, piled high for multigeneration families gathered tight around lazy susans. You get three dishes plus soup and half a chicken for $39 here. Towering feasts for eight to 10 – gargantuan platters of spicy sautéed crab, hot-pot rice with Chinese sausage, prawns, fish fillets – start at $168. I loved the rice pots, the fuzzy gourd with minced meat and noodles, the pork and chicken soup, the just-set egg custard, the free half-chicken on the bed of pickled carrot and daikon. An absolute standout: the battered, deep-fried capelin. (They’re advertised on the wall, in Chinese only; ask for the fried silver fish.) In a rare departure, there’s sweet and sour pork, also, with orange sauce that tastes like it just might not have come from a 10-gallon bucket. Is it a sop for non-Chinese customers? “Everybody orders it,” a server said. 8360 Kennedy Rd., Unit B3, 905-948-1249

Sun’s Kitchen
In a metropolitan region that’s suddenly overrun with noodle-soup joints, this time-tested little shop in a food court on the Pacific Mall’s second floor remains a standout. The soup itself is original gangster, as the local mallrats might call it: chopped barbecue duck, char siu pork, wobbly-tender brisket, spare ribs or just plain vegetables and a tangle of dense, chewy, elementally comforting northwestern Chinese wheat noodles in golden-toned poultry broth. (The peanut and chili-laden dan dan version is also great.) But the show at the counter is every bit as excellent. In a blur of flour and forearm muscle, Sun or his young apprentice stretch balls of dough into thick ropes, which they flip up above their heads, then down with a thwack to counter, then up again, and down again, folding and stretching until the rope of dough becomes dozens of those noodles, called la mian, which they drop, every minute or so, into an enormous pot of hissing water. It’s a mesmerizing show, the admission just $6; the soup is really free when you think about it. Pacific Mall, 4300 Steeles Ave. E., Markham, 905-947-8463

Ten Ren’s Tea Time
This warehouse-sized branch of Ten Ren Group, the Taiwan-based tea juggernaut, is a living room for much of Markham’s twenty-something set; it’s a scene as much as a place to buy a (non-alcoholic) drink. Those drinks are fantastic, though! Start with something simple if you’re new to Taiwanese tea culture: Iron goddess tea shaken with watermelon and aloe jelly, maybe (the bubbles caused by shaking are what give bubble tea its name; not the tapioca pearls that are often included), or a strawberry and jasmine green tea. If you’ve got kids in tow, the “horoscope drinks” come with mixed with tapioca balls and ice cream (Aquarius gets coconut and banana; Libra gets red beans and coconut). Traditionalists will find a smart selection of plain, old-fashioned hot tea, too. There are meat and noodle dishes available, though the brick toast is the go-to order. It’s a slice of white bread as thick as a box-spring mattress (or thereabouts), drenched with sweetened condensed milk and broiled. 111 Times Ave. #101, Markham, 905-881-8896

Full House Desserts
Even from 10 yards’ distance, Full House smells of durian, the hyper-odiferous southeast Asian fruit; if you don’t already love the stuff, you’re bound to pick up your pace as you walk on by. But Full House’s Hong Kong-style desserts – hot and cold soups made from nuts or fresh fruit; crêpes wrapped around Chantilly cream and fruit – are exquisite. The “Full House Sago” is a fruit-lover’s fantasy: a puree of creamy, rich-tasting mango (they use Asian mangoes here, not Mexican ones; it’s like comparing Marion Cotillard to Snooki), with tart, juicy pomelo pulp, hunks of chopped mango and glassine little pearls made from tapioca flour. The black-sesame sweet balls are smooth and white on the outside, dark and earthy in their centres, a beautiful counterpoint to hot ginger soup. I’m also a fan of the black-sesame and walnut soup, which is available with or without nutty, black glutinous rice. And even the durian is worth a try if you’re adventurous. Your best bet if you’re new to the fruit is to get a hunk of it with whipped cream in a pancake. It smells rank to the unaccustomed, like someone mixed rotting bananas with unwashed feet and baby poop, but tastes quite a bit better. There are mango-filled pancakes instead if you must. Unit #12 – 9425 Leslie St., Richmond Hill, 905-737-2300

Oddseoul: Flavours so explosive, the joint’s about to blow


As a blogger I have to say it is rare to read such a positive review esp from the Globe. I plan on making my way to Oddseoul before the majoic is gone!

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/restaurant-reviews/oddseoul-flavours-so-explosive-the-joints-about-to-blow/article8712654/
 
Oddseoul: Flavours so explosive, the joint’s about to blow

By 8:30 p.m. last Friday, snowbound Toronto had lost its appetite. Babysitters cancelled. Streetcars idled. The going-out set, weary from shoveling and warned about the state of the roads, hunkered down, housebound. Otherwise popular restaurants sat empty but for their lonely staff.

But at Oddseoul, a new Korean-American-themed restaurant and snack bar on Ossington Avenue, hungry customers crushed along the bar and around the high-top tables, inhaling bulgogi cheesesteak sandwiches, griddled white-bread hamburgers and meaty Asian chicken wings, guzzling PBR and Negra Modelo as they yelled jokes and stories and flirtatious insults over the beat of old-school funk.
As people left, you could hear them on their iPhones, calling in reinforcements. “Go before it’s impossible to get a table!” they shouted. “I’m serious!” The floor staff could hardly keep up with the crowd.

For all the frustrations of eating at Oddseoul – the lack of a website, phone number or posted business hours, the noise of the room, the squishy communal tables – the place has been packed solid since it opened in late November. On Mondays and Tuesdays, it’s jammed with chefs and restaurateurs, food geeks, DJs, artfully underemployed locals. Later in the week: Hannahs, Jessas, Adams, moneyed twentysomethings, older couples (who would shatter if you called them that). Everyone is nicely buzzed here, or about to be.

You can pig out for $25 if you want to. And the frustrations melt away in face of twenty-something chef and co-owner Leemo Han’s deliciously, deliriously nuanced cooking.
Oddseoul is a Korean-filtered homage to the vernacular foods of Philadelphia, where Han and his younger brother Leeto, who runs the front of house and bar, grew up. For his cheesesteak, Leemo Han stuffs banh mi buns with bulgogi-marinated ribeye beef, griddled onions, American cheese, kimchi and Kozlik’s triple-crunch mustard. The first bite comes like an electroshock. Your teeth sink through the toasted crust into white-bread softness, into smoky, honeyed, seasoned meat, into creamy fat and mayo and the pop of mustard seeds, like Big Mac sauce doing battle with Korean spice. The second bite is drippy, crunchy, overwhelming to neural pathways. Those cheesesteaks cost $5, less than many fast-food hamburgers. They’re the second-best sandwich in Toronto, to my mind.
They’re second-best because Mr. Han’s “The Loosey” is even better. The Loosey is modeled on the Pennsylvania sliced-bread hamburgers that the Han boys grew up eating. The patty, made from a blend of brisket and ribeye, is dark, soft and meaty. The bread: fat-sliced, sesame-crusted challah seared in butter.

He layers in a touch of roasted kimchi, dill-pickle slices, griddled onions, mayo, the crunch of chopped iceberg lettuce. Yet the special sauce is its killer ingredient. Mr. Han sauces The Loosey with buttery, yolky hollandaise that’s thinned with kimchi juice instead of lemon. It’s a five-bite indulgence, a stunned smile and sticky fingers. People erect statues of people who make sandwiches like this.

The Han boys were born in Toronto, but in the mid-1980s, the family moved south to chase the American dream. (They found it; their parents built a booming beauty-supply business.)
Leemo got into trouble after high school. Immigration kicked him back up north. He took a dishwasher job at Edo, on Eglinton Avenue West, to support himself. “I tried to work really hard and wash dishes really fast,” he said in an interview. “If I had any time I went to the chef and asked him, ‘Is there anything you need me to do, cut things or whatever?’” He progressed through Edo’s kitchen, then to Japango, near City Hall, where he cut fish at the sushi counter.

The family followed Leemo back to Canada. In the summer of 2009, the brothers opened their first restaurant, a new-Korean spot called Swish by Han on Wellington Street West. The place took off.
Oddseoul is hardly the first restaurant in the city to serve kimchi or Korean-style lettuce wraps, or to riff on American-style junk-food classics. Leemo Han did not invent kimchi hollandaise (I found a recipe from 2011) or the bulgogi cheesesteak (a food truck in Philadelphia called KoJa has already staked that claim). His gift, though, is for making them taste like more than elevated rip-offs of pre-existing rip-offs.

His cooking is its own thing, on its own terms, in many cases better than the original – it’s Jay-Z reinventing Annie’s It’s the Hard Knock Life.

Take his tempura prawns, which come extra crisp, with black sesame seeds and a pink sauce that’s made with Japanese chili paste, Kewpie mayonnaise and flying-fish roe. Any similarity to Filet-o-Fish sauce is purely coincidental, Mr. Han says with a smile in his voice. It is genius, whatever it is.
He marinates the chunks of pork neck in his pork neck lettuce wraps with sweet, spicy daeji gogi sauce and then smokes them over a bowl of charcoal that he keeps on the griddle, a ghetto smoker. He serves the works alongside superb Chinese-style fried rice. (Also available: wraps with pork belly and shrimp, cumin lamb or beef shortrib. You can get lettuce to wrap them or rice paper. The platters cost $25 and serve two.)

The squash poutine is made from hunks of buttercup, peel on, tender-fried, under Japanese curry, with kimchi cabbage, gooey cheddar curds, dark (vegetarian!) gravy, scallions and mayonnaise. That is genius, also.

Mr. Han’s menu is in flux for now. He plans to introduce a larger take on The Loosey when they start lunch service in the next few weeks, as well as a dessert (there are none at present) combining sweet-potato doughnuts, a Sesame Snaps glaze and some type of house-made ice cream.
But if you’re up for this kind of place, you should get there before then. If I could, I would call you on my cellphone and shout, “Go before it’s impossible to get a table! I’m serious!”